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2023 Wicked ProStock Rules

2023 Wicked ProStock Rules  

Any year American made automobile is welcome except limos, hearses, and checker  cabs.  

General Rules  

  1. Read all rules carefully and follow them! Any questions, contact the “Wicked Derbies” facebook page. There will be no stretching or bending of any rules, blatant cheating will result in you being loaded with no chance of cutting.
  2. You must pass inspection within 3 times through or you will not be permitted to run.  3. A 12“ x 12“ roof sign is mandatory. It can not strengthen the car in anyway.  4. Cars must be stock unless modifications are stated in the rules. Cars must have  

functioning brakes at all times on at least one axle. No painting of the frames, inside of  body of the car, or underneath of the car and inside of the trunk.   

  1. A helmet, seat belt, and eye protection must be worn at all times on the track.  6. If it doesn’t say you can do it, don’t do it.  
  2. Any controversies or protests must be brought up during the drivers meeting. We have  the right to reinspect, cut, or drill any car at any time. If you are caught breaking the rules  you will forfeit all winnings and/or prizes you are due. If you stretch a rule, you will lose  that rule.  
  3. All airbags, glass, plastic, and interior must be removed before arriving to the event.  
  4. Any aftermarket parts must be approved. You must contact the “Wicked Derbies” Facebook page and submit pictures for approval. Parts that are not approved before the derby are  not permitted to run.  
  5. No painting of the frames, inside of the body of the car, or underneath of the car and  inside of the trunk. This includes overspray. If found with paint within those areas, the  car will not even be inspected.  
  6. All trailer hitches and braces must be removed.  
  7. Batteries must be moved to the passenger front floorboard. They must be properly  secured and covered.  
  8. Patching and rust repair will be permitted only if cleared by an official.  14. Officials’ decisions are final! All cars are subjected to re-inspection at any time.  
  9. If the car is found to have plate on the frame or body that the rules do not allow the car  will not be permitted to run. There will be no option to fix this problem.  
  10. If you hammer/shape/weld on the frame in any manner not covered in the rules you will  not be able to run. There is no fixing this.  
  11. You have 1 minute to make an aggressive hit. After 1 minute that car is disqualified. That  is 1-minute total. An aggressive hit is solely at the discretion of the officials
  12. You are not permitted to hit anyone in the driver’s door. If you do, you are disqualified.  If you use your driver’s door to take advantage of this rule, the car that hit you is not  disqualified.  
  13. You may not get out of your car for any reason during the heat until you are out. 20. You are only permitted to have 1 fire in your car. This will result in a disqualification. 21. No sandbagging, teaming, or holding. Any of these will result in a disqualification. You  can not pin to win.  

FRAME & BUMPERS (NO RUST REPAIR)  

  1. Trailer hitches and braces must be removed.  
  2. No frame welding other than what is stated in the rules.  
  3. You may cut the flaps and tilt the frame in 1 place and in 1 direction. No seam welding  on the frames permitted.  
  4. No shaping or hammering of the frame. You may crease, notch, or dimple the rear 12” of  the frame to help the car roll.  
  5. Homemade front bumpers are permitted. If you choose to manufacture a homemade  bumper, it must conform to the following size limits: It can be no larger than 8” x 8”. The  point must taper over an area of at least 32” wide and can not exceed 12” wide (front to  back). The point may only extend out 4” from the flat part of the bumper. If using a  factory bumper, it may be loaded or stuffed full.  
  6. You may mount the front or rear bumper in 1 of 2 ways: 
  7. The bumper may be welded to the factory shock in the factory location. If using a  factory bumper shock, it must be bolted in the factory location and must have a  1½” inch gap from the frame to the shock plate.  
  8. The front frame may be shortened to the front edge of the factory core support  mount and the bumper may be welded directly to the frame. You are not  

permitted to do this for any Cadillac or Imperial. The bumper shock must be  removed from the inside of the frame, and you are permitted a 2” x 6” x 1/4”  plate on the side of the frame for a bumper bracket and it must be welded on the  outside of the frame towards the tires. Do not alter the factory mount. On the back  side of the bumper where it meets the frame you may use a 1/4” x 6” x 6” plate to  create a flat mounting surface.   

  1. The car must set level. The bumpers can not be higher than 22” to the bottom of the  bumper or lower than 14” to the bottom part of the frame.  
  2. You may have a 6” x 20” x 1/4” hump plate and may be straight across or contoured to  the frame and must be centered in the hump.  
  3. Shortening of the rear frame, body, and unibody is not permitted in any way. 

BODY & CAGE  

  1. Doors may be welded 5” on 5” off with no thicker than 1/4” x 3” x 5” material or can be  fastened shut with #9 wire or banding. The driver’s door may have a door skin no thicker  than 1/8” and may be welded all the way around. 
  2. The trunk lid must be from the same make and model of the car and must be a trunk lid (no  hoods). You can fold the trunk lid over or push it down. The trunk must remain on the  factory hinges and the front part of the speaker tray must remain vertical. The deck lid is  being measured 12” from the top of the rear quarter panels in the center of the deck lid in 3  spots starting from the back of the deck lid up. Two (2) 8” x 8” inspection holes must be put  in all deck lids within 2” of the trunk strapping and in the center of the side quarter panel  strapping. This is mandatory. No welding the deck lid to the trunk floor. Body creasing is  okay. Deck lids may be welded with 3” x 5” x 1⁄4” plate 5” on 5” off. The speaker deck must  remain intact.  
  3. The hood can be bolted down in 6 places. 4 spots from sheet metal to sheet metal and 2 front  body mounts that may extend through the hood. If using wire, you may use 8 double strands  of #9 wire. Two may go around the bumper and/or the frame. Hoods must be open for  inspection (12" x 12" hole over the carburetor).  
  4. Factory body mount bolts may be changed to 5/8” bolts. There must be a 1” gap between the body and the frame. You can use steel spacers, hockey pucks, or a stack of washers but nothing used may be bigger than 3” in diameter. Body washers inside of the car can be no  bigger than 3” in diameter. The front 2 body mounts may be 1” and extend up through the  hood. You may weld a 3” washer to the top side of the frame but only centered over the body  hole (1/4” thick).  
  5. No seam welding will be permitted on the body. Repairing sheet metal is limited to where  the battery box and gas tank are and the driver’s area of the floorboards of the car.  
  6. Front body spacers may be 10” tall and welded to the core support frame mount and must  remain below the core support and not welded to the core support whatsoever.  
  7. You may have a bar in the dash area and a bar behind the seat. You can have one bar per side  connecting the dash bar and the rear bar. Side bars may be inside of the car or inside of the  doors. A roll over bar is permitted. No down legs are permitted. Gussets are permitted in the  corners of the cage but must be done at the corners only. The bars must be no bigger than 4”  in diameter and no longer than 60”. You can use a 1⁄4” x 10” x 10” plate to attach the bars to  the sheet metal. No kickers or down legs are permitted. You may have a gas tank protector  no wider than 32”. It may touch the package tray and it can be welded with 2 welds or 2 ½”  bolts.  
  8. The dash bar must be 5” from the firewall and the rear bar can be no farther back than where  the kick panel meets the seat. All bars must be 5” off the transmission tunnel.  9. The original gas tank must be removed and replaced with a boat style tank or fuel cell. If it is  a plastic fuel cell it must be in a steel structure. It must be moved inside of the car behind the  driver's seat but no further back than the rear axle. Batteries must be moved to the passenger  side floorboard and securely fastened. These must be covered with a rubber or non flammable material.  
  9. You may use expanded metal no thicker than 1/8” or a factory air condenser on the core  support in front of the radiator. This may be attached with four 3/8” bolts or four 1” welds. 
  10. You may have 1 front and 1 rear window bar that can not be any thicker than 3” x 1/4”.  These may attach to the sheet metal no more than 6” on the roof and deck lid.  12. You may have four ½” bolts per wheel well.  

SUSPENSION  

  1. You are permitted 1” all thread for front shocks but only one per side with a 3” x 3”  washer on top of the cone and a 3” x 3” washer on the bottom side of the lower control  arm. The washers can not be welded. All nuts must be standard.  
  2. Any tie rods may be used. On an ‘03 and newer, you must use the factory rack and  pinion. Any rear end is permitted. If you run a rear end brace, it can not reinforce the  frame or be any wider than 10”.  
  3. Watts link conversions on ‘98 and newer cars are permitted. You must use 1⁄4” x 2” x 2”  square tubing or 2” round pipe for the rear trailing arms. For the upper and lower  mounting brackets, the uppers must be mounted to the package tray and the lowers must  be mounted on the side of the frame. It can not be mounted inside, on top of , or on the bottom of the frame and can be no larger than 7” x 7”.  
  4. You can weld the front upper A-arms down using a 1⁄4” x 2” x 4” piece of steel on the  front and back side of the upper A-arm. No other welding is permitted on the upper A arm. No welding on the lower A-arms is permitted.  
  5. No spacers or other metal permitted in, on top of, or around the coil springs or inside of  the frame on the coil springs. No aftermarket coil springs are permitted.  
  6. Rear coil springs may be wired or chained. Solid suspensions are okay. All suspension  components must remain factory stock. No modifications will be permitted. Cars do not  have to bounce.  
  7. Leaf spring cars must remain factory springs. You can not change coil spring to leaf  spring set ups. 
  8. Any tires are permitted.  
  9. On ‘03 and newer Fords, you must use the factory aluminum cradle and suspension  components. You may use 80’s style spindles and only 80’s style spindles. You can not tilt an ‘03 and newer Ford.  
  10. No aftermarket spindles are permitted. If you use aftermarket ball joints the collar you  weld in or bolt in can only be ½” bigger than the ball joint.  
  11. If you run a sway bar it must be mounted in the factory position. The ends can be heated  and bolted to the lower A-arm with no bigger than a ½” bolt. It must have a 1” gap from  the pulley protector. No welding of the sway bar is permitted.  

ENGINE, TRANSMISSON, & DRIVETRAIN  

  1. Any car motor of choice is permitted. You must use the frame mounts that have a rubber  style bushing like a factory style mount. ZTR or equivalent mounts are permitted. No  solid mounts are permitted. No chains on the engine are permitted. On ’03 and newer  cars, it must have a rubber style motor mount. 
  2. The transmission cross member can be a factory one or 2” x 2” square tubing only. It  must be straight.  
  3. The angles for the cross member can't be longer than 7" x 2” x 2” and must be within 12"  from the factory location.  
  4. Lower Engine cradles and pulley protectors are permitted.  
  5. Transmission braces, aftermarket bell housings, aftermarket tail shafts, and slider  driveshafts are permitted. Distributor protectors and mid plates are not permitted.  6. Aftermarket gas pedal, brake pedal, steering column, and transmission cooler are  permitted. These must not be mounted in a way to strengthen car.  
  6. No skid plates are permitted.